Photos of a Yohji Yamamoto lineup never capture the Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot shirt Furthermore, I will do this degree of details printed words, an artistic embellishment that you will discover on the clothes up close. Only when poking around backstage after today’s show did the text “I hold you, you hold me” reveal itself on a loose-fitting shirt. The designer, too, usually doles out his thoughts judiciously, as though being forced to explain himself not only demystifies the process but goes against the interpretative aspect of what he creates. Today, he reiterated his fear of an impending climate crisis, as well as his view that gender distinctions in menswear and womenswear have all but evaporated. These talking points manifested as ultra-relaxed ensembles, some bearing near-nonexistent landscapes. Masculine workwear jackets superimposed on suiting were interspersed with more ambiguous silhouettes, namely a dashing duo of full-length windbreakers in deep blue and yellow, worn like dresses. One of the two shirts styled overtop was marked up with the words mother f well, you get the idea. Compared with the humble raw cotton and signature black gabardine, a black velvet grouping introduced a certain grandeur especially those pieces covered in pseudo-historical heraldic emblems. Yamamoto said he experimented with these purely because he wanted to an aesthetic indulgence, essentially. In that vein, some pieces could have been spared the myriad zippered vents and excess bands. If nothing more, they were a reminder that he is not a minimalist. Yamamoto’s approach seemed less conceptual this season, and his commentary was correspondingly direct. “The earth is going to be crazy, really crazy,” he said. “I’m afraid the earth is going to die.” Did he think he would see this in his lifetime? “No, maybe our children and grandchildren.” And yet this wasn’t necessarily an exercise in fatalism. The pair of hands on the side of a garment were they signaling some sort of diplomatic handshake or a more affectionate clasp? “Both,” he replied. So we have a quandary: How can we have an economic theory that does not describe changes in the level of wealth? The fact is, that in typical explanations of the Savings equals Investment identity, one might come across in economics courses, it is implied that somehow this Savings that equals investment DOES include changes in the level of wealth. And that, I believe, is not only not true, it has led to all sorts of confusion. After thinking about this, I realized, that the expression for savings needed an additional element if it was going to include any changes in the level of wealth, I had to do just that. I had to add changes in level of wealth to the expression for savings.
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During a flying showroom appointment this morning, Yang Li explained that this menswear collection is a remixed and updated compilation of some of his and his client’s favorite past pieces. That remix was achieved in collaboration with a roster of Li-loved musicians old and new: Genesis P-Orridge, Godflesh, Michael Gira, Psychic TV, Ramleh, Swans, Torturing Nurse, Tropic of Cancer, Yung Lean, and Zuoxiao Zuzhou. In harmony with these cocreators, Li applied mixed-up fan patches to the Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot shirt Furthermore, I will do this back of biker shorts and starkly graphic white stenciling to the front of black suiting. There was a gothic Godflesh robelike parka and a hard-edged denim donkey jacket, a cool red-fringed black shirt, and a typically tough KTC-produced trench, and a fine satin-lined double-faced fish-tail parka. The collection was entitled Greatest Hits (Side A), which suggests Li is going to move onto some B-side rarities and more remixes come next season. And there will be more vinyl than that applied to the shoulder of that donkey jacket: Each musical artist is contributing a track to what will become a Yang Li LP. There is an echo in the work of Glenn Martens’s Y/Project of Vivienne Westwood’s “Drunken Tailoring.” However, the distortions achieved by Martens are much more extreme, much more mind-twisting, much more perception-altered: Call it “Acid Tailoring,” maybe. Held in a church, the Oratoire du Louvre, and with a soundtrack by Bizet’s “L’Amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle,” partially performed by Beaker from The Muppets, this was a show in which grandiosity was undercut by humor at every turn. As an ensemble, the looks made up a collection of urban tribes. The apparel assumed by these human tropes was invariably subjected to lovingly violent alteration. The tailored jackets and top coats of Y/Project’s smoothly conventional urban man were disrupted and turned inside on themselves in little explosions centered on the left-side lapel. Chevron stitching on cheesy knits pointed downward past the double-zippered fanny packs to the tightly fitted leggings (this is really happening) below. Faux country wax jackets and hipster workwear jackets were grabbed by an invisible hand at the collar and pulled upward as if the wearer was being ejected for unruly conduct. Some of the womenswear was outstandingly beautiful. So I added to the definition of any savings that “results from a period of economic activity”, the amount of any changes in the total level of wealth that occurred in that economy. And actually not just added the amount of wealth created, but also subtract off the amount of wealth depleted. So, to the definition for savings, I add “wealth created” minus “wealth depleted”. I call this quantity the “net production of wealth”, or simply “net production”.